New blogs from swarga on LBN Network

New blogs from swarga on LBN Network http://www.lbnnetwork.com/service/displayHomePageExperience.kickAction?page=Homepage&as=34209 New blogs from swarga on LBN Network Fri, 29 May 2009 17:48:12 GMT Fri, 29 May 2009 17:48:12 GMT mwahlstrom1@cox.net (mwahlstrom) mwahlstrom1@cox.net (mwahlstrom) KickApps Feed Builder 2009-05-29T17:48:12Z 3 http://www.lbnnetwork.com/service/searchEverything.kickAction?as=34209&sortType=recent 0 DEFECTIVE CONSTRUCTION DISPUTE RESOLUTION http://www.lbnnetwork.com/_DEFECTIVE-CONSTRUCTION-DISPUTE-RESOLUTION/BLOG/293652/34209.html    /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} Your new home has cracks in the walls, the roof leaks and the doors and windows don’t close. You call the builder and they rush out only to look at the property and say, “Well your landscaping caused the problem.  We will fix the cracks even though we don’t have too because we pride ourselves on customer service.” They perform repairs to the walls and adjust the window and leave. You call your landscaper and he tells you that there is no way the landscaping could have caused the issues since it is just colored rock. Then 6 months later the cracks start showing up again. You think the sky is falling and the builder says it’s not our fault and the battle begins. In my line of work I see problems with homes on a daily basis. Some are easy to fix and only on rare occasions is it cheaper to tear down and start over than to repair. There are hundreds if not thousands of attorneys that practice construction law and there are almost as many (so called) experts.  These attorneys and experts are able to point out what’s wrong with the home (so are you, that is why you called them)  however, many of these self proclaimed professionals are  inexperienced when it comes to determining the cause of the damage and what needs to be done to repair the home. There are some builders that will take the initiative and try to find the problem but with the residential construction market crashing, many simply don’t have the money for repairs. So your home doesn’t get fixed or only gets patched and the contractor goes away. When the problem returns you look for professional help. You hire an attorney and/or a construction expert. The attorney sends a letter to the builder spelling out all the defects. The builder turns the case over to their insurance company and the insurance company contacts their attorneys. Then after a few letters are exchanged the builder’s inspections are performed by their team of experts. The battle turns into what law is applied and how that law is interpreted instead of what is wrong, how do we fix it, who is responsible and how much will it cost. At this point I feel I should point out that the only people that make money in lawsuits are the attorneys and the experts. Typically both sides end up paying for these services out of pocket and while you can always ask for attorney and expert fees and costs in a lawsuit, my experience is you rarely recoup 100% of those costs even if you win. The truth about the attorneys and experts is many of them help each other make money. Since the attorney typically recommends the expert, some of the experts attempt to, shall we say, view things differently.  The plaintiff’s expert must have scratched glasses because everywhere he looks he sees cracks while the defense expert looks at the ceiling and then states he didn’t see any evidence that the foundation has moved and he saw no cracked floor tiles. Usually the truth is somewhere in the middle. (Recently a local engineer stated that even though the floor in a building had sunk 7 inches, it wasn’t moving when he looked at it so it is no longer a problem.)   The fact is these types of experts don’t help the case they slow it down and that, along with the attorneys bickering, results in increased costs. The builder’s insurance company pays then increases their fees the following year and the builder has even less money. This is one of the many problems with builders using the insurance company is their own persona warranty company Good News: Not all builders, attorneys or experts behave that way. I have had the pleasure of working on the opposite side of some experts that actually know what is wrong and want to see the home repaired properly. This really is a win win. The home owner gets the home fixed, and the builder is able to salvage their reputation. (Not to mention the attorneys and/or experts get paid.) Both sides can and should do several things to help control costs. Photo document everything. I don’t care if it is the foundation steel or the cracks in the walls. Use a measure of some kind. If you don’t have a tape measure simply place a dollar bill net to the defect you are photographing for a size reference.  Take several photos of everything from different angles and document the day the photo was taken and by whom. These photos can reduce the number of trips to the property and if taken during construction or repairs, may prevent, or reduce the amount of destructive testing that needs to be performed. Interview your team.  Find out what their experience is and what type of success they have resolving the issues. (This is different than settling the case). What other experts do they know and work with? Have they worked on other cases like yours? What are their fees and how do they bill? Try to find a construction expert that will work with both parties to resolve the issue before you hire the attorney. If you are going to hire an expert anyway, why not give them the chance to work with both parties to resolve the issue first. If they are successful, you saved the attorneys fees, if they are not, you will already have the information needed so it can expedite the process. Have the home professionally inspected before you purchase it. Take photos of the entire home interior and exterior and save the photos with your inspection report. If the damage existed when you bought the home, it will be documented, if it occurs after the purchase, that will be documented s well. Gathering evidence is one of the most expensive costs in a case. Taking photos or video of the entire home during construction, at the time of purchase, at the time of any repairs, and any other time can help your case and help keeps costs low. For more information feel free to contact us.   Scott Warga, is the Qualifying party for ACSI American Construction Specialists and Investigations LLC,(ROC216772) a dual licensed residential and small commercial contractor. He is also a qualified home inspector certified by the Arizona Board of Technical Registration (#38062) and was appointed to the Arizona Board of Technical Registration’s Enforcement Advisory Committee. He has 9 years construction experience and has performed residential and commercial property inspections for over six years. He has specialized in forensic inspections, investigating failed, damaged and defective construction for over 4 years. He is a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors, (#205826) and currently sits on their board of directors. Scott is also a member of the International Code Council (#5095644). He has been an instructor of home inspection at Mesa Community College and Arizona Sun-Tech Home Inspection School. He is an instructor for Inspection Training Associates, a Kaplan Professional School. He has served an District Chairman & Vice President for the Arizona chapter of the American Society of Home Inspectors and an approved instructor for both them and the Arizona Department of Real Estate.      /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} Your new home has cracks in the walls, the roof leaks and the doors and windows don’t close. You call the builder and they rush out only to look at the property and say, “Well your landscaping caused the problem.  We will fix the cracks even though we don’t have too because we pride ourselves on customer service.” They perform repairs to the walls and adjust the window and leave. You call your landscaper and he tells you that there is no way the landscaping could have caused the issues since it is just colored rock. Then 6 months later the cracks start showing up again. You think the sky is falling and the builder says it’s not our fault and the battle begins. In my line of work I see problems with homes on a daily basis. Some are easy to fix and only on rare occasions is it cheaper to tear down and start over than to repair. There are hundreds if not thousands of attorneys that practice construction law and there are almost as many (so called) experts.  These attorneys and experts are able to point out what’s wrong with the home (so are you, that is why you called them)  however, many of these self proclaimed professionals are  inexperienced when it comes to determining the cause of the damage and what needs to be done to repair the home. There are some builders that will take the initiative and try to find the problem but with the residential construction market crashing, many simply don’t have the money for repairs. So your home doesn’t get fixed or only gets patched and the contractor goes away. When the problem returns you look for professional help. You hire an attorney and/or a construction expert. The attorney sends a letter to the builder spelling out all the defects. The builder turns the case over to their insurance company and the insurance company contacts their attorneys. Then after a few letters are exchanged the builder’s inspections are performed by their team of experts. The battle turns into what law is applied and how that law is interpreted instead of what is wrong, how do we fix it, who is responsible and how much will it cost. At this point I feel I should point out that the only people that make money in lawsuits are the attorneys and the experts. Typically both sides end up paying for these services out of pocket and while you can always ask for attorney and expert fees and costs in a lawsuit, my experience is you rarely recoup 100% of those costs even if you win. The truth about the attorneys and experts is many of them help each other make money. Since the attorney typically recommends the expert, some of the experts attempt to, shall we say, view things differently.  The plaintiff’s expert must have scratched glasses because everywhere he looks he sees cracks while the defense expert looks at the ceiling and then states he didn’t see any evidence that the foundation has moved and he saw no cracked floor tiles. Usually the truth is somewhere in the middle. (Recently a local engineer stated that even though the floor in a building had sunk 7 inches, it wasn’t moving when he looked at it so it is no longer a problem.)   The fact is these types of experts don’t help the case they slow it down and that, along with the attorneys bickering, results in increased costs. The builder’s insurance company pays then increases their fees the following year and the builder has even less money. This is one of the many problems with builders using the insurance company is their own persona warranty company Good News: Not all builders, attorneys or experts behave that way. I have had the pleasure of working on the opposite side of some experts that actually know what is wrong and want to see the home repaired properly. This really is a win win. The home owner gets the home fixed, and the builder is able to salvage their reputation. (Not to mention the attorneys and/or experts get paid.) Both sides can and should do several things to help control costs. Photo document everything. I don’t care if it is the foundation steel or the cracks in the walls. Use a measure of some kind. If you don’t have a tape measure simply place a dollar bill net to the defect you are photographing for a size reference.  Take several photos of everything from different angles and document the day the photo was taken and by whom. These photos can reduce the number of trips to the property and if taken during construction or repairs, may prevent, or reduce the amount of destructive testing that needs to be performed. Interview your team.  Find out what their experience is and what type of success they have resolving the issues. (This is different than settling the case). What other experts do they know and work with? Have they worked on other cases like yours? What are their fees and how do they bill? Try to find a construction expert that will work with both parties to resolve the issue before you hire the attorney. If you are going to hire an expert anyway, why not give them the chance to work with both parties to resolve the issue first. If they are successful, you saved the attorneys fees, if they are not, you will already have the information needed so it can expedite the process. Have the home professionally inspected before you purchase it. Take photos of the entire home interior and exterior and save the photos with your inspection report. If the damage existed when you bought the home, it will be documented, if it occurs after the purchase, that will be documented s well. Gathering evidence is one of the most expensive costs in a case. Taking photos or video of the entire home during construction, at the time of purchase, at the time of any repairs, and any other time can help your case and help keeps costs low. For more information feel free to contact us.   Scott Warga, is the Qualifying party for ACSI American Construction Specialists and Investigations LLC,(ROC216772) a dual licensed residential and small commercial contractor. He is also a qualified home inspector certified by the Arizona Board of Technical Registration (#38062) and was appointed to the Arizona Board of Technical Registration’s Enforcement Advisory Committee. He has 9 years construction experience and has performed residential and commercial property inspections for over six years. He has specialized in forensic inspections, investigating failed, damaged and defective construction for over 4 years. He is a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors, (#205826) and currently sits on their board of directors. Scott is also a member of the International Code Council (#5095644). He has been an instructor of home inspection at Mesa Community College and Arizona Sun-Tech Home Inspection School. He is an instructor for Inspection Training Associates, a Kaplan Professional School. He has served an District Chairman & Vice President for the Arizona chapter of the American Society of Home Inspectors and an approved instructor for both them and the Arizona Department of Real Estate.   Fri, 29 May 2009 17:48:12 GMT http://www.lbnnetwork.com/_DEFECTIVE-CONSTRUCTION-DISPUTE-RESOLUTION/BLOG/293652/34209.html swarga 2009-05-29T17:48:12Z LBN Network    /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;} Your new home has cracks in the walls, the roof leaks and the doors and windows don’t close. You call the builder and they rush out only to look at the property and say, “Well your landscaping caused the problem.  We will fix the cracks even though we don’t have too because we pride ourselves on customer service.” They perform repairs to the walls and adjust the window and leave. You call your landscaper and he tells you that there is no way the landscaping could have caused the issues since it is just colored rock. Then 6 months later the cracks start showing up again. You think the sky is falling and the builder says it’s not our fault and the battle begins. In my line of work I see problems with homes on a daily basis. Some are easy to fix and only on rare occasions is it cheaper to tear down and start over than to repair. There are hundreds if not thousands of attorneys that practice construction law and there are almost as many (so called) experts.  These attorneys and experts are able to point out what’s wrong with the home (so are you, that is why you called them)  however, many of these self proclaimed professionals are  inexperienced when it comes to determining the cause of the damage and what needs to be done to repair the home. There are some builders that will take the initiative and try to find the problem but with the residential construction market crashing, many simply don’t have the money for repairs. So your home doesn’t get fixed or only gets patched and the contractor goes away. When the problem returns you look for professional help. You hire an attorney and/or a construction expert. The attorney sends a letter to the builder spelling out all the defects. The builder turns the case over to their insurance company and the insurance company contacts their attorneys. Then after a few letters are exchanged the builder’s inspections are performed by their team of experts. The battle turns into what law is applied and how that law is interpreted instead of what is wrong, how do we fix it, who is responsible and how much will it cost. At this point I feel I should point out that the only people that make money in lawsuits are the attorneys and the experts. Typically both sides end up paying for these services out of pocket and while you can always ask for attorney and expert fees and costs in a lawsuit, my experience is you rarely recoup 100% of those costs even if you win. The truth about the attorneys and experts is many of them help each other make money. Since the attorney typically recommends the expert, some of the experts attempt to, shall we say, view things differently.  The plaintiff’s expert must have scratched glasses because everywhere he looks he sees cracks while the defense expert looks at the ceiling and then states he didn’t see any evidence that the foundation has moved and he saw no cracked floor tiles. Usually the truth is somewhere in the middle. (Recently a local engineer stated that even though the floor in a building had sunk 7 inches, it wasn’t moving when he looked at it so it is no longer a problem.)   The fact is these types of experts don’t help the case they slow it down and that, along with the attorneys bickering, results in increased costs. The builder’s insurance company pays then increases their fees the following year and the builder has even less money. This is one of the many problems with builders using the insurance company is their own persona warranty company Good News: Not all builders, attorneys or experts behave that way. I have had the pleasure of working on the opposite side of some experts that actually know what is wrong and want to see the home repaired properly. This really is a win win. The home owner gets the home fixed, and the builder is able to salvage their reputation. (Not to mention the attorneys and/or experts get paid.) Both sides can and should do several things to help control costs. Photo document everything. I don’t care if it is the foundation steel or the cracks in the walls. Use a measure of some kind. If you don’t have a tape measure simply place a dollar bill net to the defect you are photographing for a size reference.  Take several photos of everything from different angles and document the day the photo was taken and by whom. These photos can reduce the number of trips to the property and if taken during construction or repairs, may prevent, or reduce the amount of destructive testing that needs to be performed. Interview your team.  Find out what their experience is and what type of success they have resolving the issues. (This is different than settling the case). What other experts do they know and work with? Have they worked on other cases like yours? What are their fees and how do they bill? Try to find a construction expert that will work with both parties to resolve the issue before you hire the attorney. If you are going to hire an expert anyway, why not give them the chance to work with both parties to resolve the issue first. If they are successful, you saved the attorneys fees, if they are not, you will already have the information needed so it can expedite the process. Have the home professionally inspected before you purchase it. Take photos of the entire home interior and exterior and save the photos with your inspection report. If the damage existed when you bought the home, it will be documented, if it occurs after the purchase, that will be documented s well. Gathering evidence is one of the most expensive costs in a case. Taking photos or video of the entire home during construction, at the time of purchase, at the time of any repairs, and any other time can help your case and help keeps costs low. For more information feel free to contact us.   Scott Warga, is the Qualifying party for ACSI American Construction Specialists and Investigations LLC,(ROC216772) a dual licensed residential and small commercial contractor. He is also a qualified home inspector certified by the Arizona Board of Technical Registration (#38062) and was appointed to the Arizona Board of Technical Registration’s Enforcement Advisory Committee. He has 9 years construction experience and has performed residential and commercial property inspections for over six years. He has specialized in forensic inspections, investigating failed, damaged and defective construction for over 4 years. He is a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors, (#205826) and currently sits on their board of directors. Scott is also a member of the International Code Council (#5095644). He has been an instructor of home inspection at Mesa Community College and Arizona Sun-Tech Home Inspection School. He is an instructor for Inspection Training Associates, a Kaplan Professional School. He has served an District Chairman & Vice President for the Arizona chapter of the American Society of Home Inspectors and an approved instructor for both them and the Arizona Department of Real Estate.   nonadult false DEFECTIVE CONSTRUCTION DISPUTE RESOLUTION text blog 152 0 0.0 http://www.lbnnetwork.com/service/displayKickPlace.kickAction?u=3900867&as=34209 http://media.kickstatic.com/kickapps/images/34209/photos/PHOTO_3882166_34209_3900867_ap_160X120.jpg false United States AZ 0 0 293652 3900867 Member 0 MOISTURE IN CONCRETE SLABS POURED ON GRADE IN ARIZONA http://www.lbnnetwork.com/_MOISTURE-IN-CONCRETE-SLABS-POURED-ON-GRADE-IN-ARIZONA/BLOG/290075/34209.html You bought a new home, ordered your options and moved in. A year or two go by and you start rearranging the furniture. That’s when you noticed the odor. You lifted the protective mat under your desk chair and the smell made your eyes water or maybe you smelled it when you opened a closet door or an unvented room. Did you order a light colored vinyl flooring for your kitchen but now the floor has a darker color coming through? Maybe it has a grey or green tint, maybe it has a purple or orange hue or maybe it has bubbled or lifted off of the floor. These problems and many others are caused by moisture vapor coming up through the concrete slab. This condition is occurring more frequently here in the Phoenix area and there are a few factors that contribute to the problem. Before we cover those factors, lets look at the problem a little closer. The Issues Moisture vapor coming up through a slab can cause wood floors to warp, delaminate swell and promotes mold growth. The moisture can cause the mastic that holds tile to the floor to fail, this leads to the floor tiles sounding hollow and lifting off the floor. The vapor frequently passes through carpet and other floorings unless there is some type of vapor barrier. Vinyl flooring creates a barrier by itself, other examples of barriers could be a chair mat, floor runners with a non-slip backing or anything else that prevents the moisture from escaping. The bottom line is, if moisture can’t pass through the flooring, then it is trapped under the flooring. That leads to the next question, where does the moisture come from? The Source The moisture typically comes from two sources. The water in the concrete mix slowly dries by traveling to the top of the slab and evaporating. This process can take six months to completely dry a properly placed slab. The other source of moisture is from the soil beneath the slab. Moisture evaporates and once concrete is placed on the ground, the evaporation of moisture in the soil is severely restricted. The moisture in the ground is rarely viewed, discussed or even considered an issue during construction since the slab is still in the drying process and there is not a large temperature difference above and below the concrete. However, this changes once the home is completed. Now the air inside the home is conditioned and the temperature change and pressure change along with the difference in relative humidity between the air above the slab and the soil beneath the slab causes a vapor pressure difference. Simply put, moisture travels from heat to cool. The moisture under the slab is drawn to the cool, dry, air conditioned concrete slab. Concrete is porous, it is not water proof and the moisture vapor rises to and passes through the slab by capillary action and vapor diffusion. The Cause Moisture under a slab wasn’t an issue in the desert a few years ago, but today is a different story. Today’s construction techniques are a little different, contractors are flooding building pads to address issues with the soil like compaction and expansiveness. Homes are also being constructed on properties that used to be agricultural land. This land may have been a dairy or a farm field that used to be irrigated frequently. Soils tests are commonly performed before the land is developed. Recently these soils tests results indicate moisture levels of 20% to 50% in the soil anywhere from two to 10 feet down. (it is rare that soil samples are taken below 10 feet deep) It takes a long time for moisture to rise to the top of a concrete slab from 10 feet down, maybe even years. Sometimes the grading and drainage of the property directs moisture into the soil below the foundation. This, in effect, can recharge the moisture source under the slab. There is also the possibility of an underground plumbing leak or the landscape system adding moisture to the soil under the slab. However, homes are built on moist soils all over the world, why do we have a moisture problem in the desert? Construction Issues The moisture is drawn up to and through the slab by capillary action, vapor diffusion and evaporation. The quickest way to prevent the moisture from migrating through the slab is to stop these actions from occurring. One of the things that need to change is the aggregate base course (ABC) that is being used in the desert. Currently the ABC is a sand/stone mixture, however sand promotes the capillary action and therefore makes a poor choice as ABC in an area where there is an elevated moisture content in the subsoils. Using a stone as ABC would help eliminate the capillary action. Another way to reduce the moisture is to provide adequate grading and drainage. This should include controlling roof drainage and diverting it at least 8 feet away from the foundation. The landscaping plumbing and control valves should also be located several feet away from the foundation as the control valves have a tendency to leak and the further away that moisture is from the foundation, the less impact it will have on the foundation. The most effective way to control the moisture is with a vapor barrier. This is a thin plastic sheet placed on top of the ABC before the concrete is poured. Previous construction practices would place the vapor barrier below the ABC or place a thin layer of sand on top of the vapor barrier so that moisture could escape through the top and bottom of the slab, however the moisture still migrates up through the slab. Placing the barrier below the sand or ABC creates a reservoir for the water that drains from the wet concrete and capillary action prevents moisture from draining by gravity through the sand. It may interest you to know that a vapor retarder is required by the International Residential Code (IRC) in section 506.2.3, however, it may be omitted if the local building official approves the omission due to local site conditions. So how is the issue corrected? Correcting the Issue The best way to get rid of the moisture in the slab is to prevent it from getting there in the first place. Check the moisture content of the soil, use ABC that is ½ inch or larger and install a vapor barrier above the ABC and below the concrete. If the home is already built and you own it then you need the help of professionals. Have a calcium chloride test performed on the floor slab to determine the rate of vapor transmission through the slab. If floor coverings are present they will need to be removed before and during the testing. Testing commonly takes 24 to 60 hours. There are many different flooring companies that can perform this test for you, or contact the engineer you want to assist you with this project. Check for moisture sources around the home including grading, drainage, irrigation, roof downspouts, and swimming pools. Have the supply and the waste plumbing checked for leaks. If you still have not corrected the issue, then consult with professionals. Expect them to core through the slab and determine if a vapor barrier is present and investigate the conditions of the soil and ABC under the slab. Methods of repair are limited and should be considered fully before proceeding. The slab surface can be sealed. This will reduce or even stop the vapor transmission temporarily. A good sealer may last ten years, inexpensive sealers may not last a year. Before sealing, all floor coverings and furnishings will need to be removed from the slab. There are other methods of venting or draining the slab that are available, some involve forcing air under the slab or drawing air from under the slab. Another method is to install a drainage system that gets the moisture away from the slab. All of these repairs should be reviewed by an engineer before they are implemented, and the work should be performed by a contractor experienced in this area. Scott Warga, is the Qualifying party for ACSI American Construction Specialists and Investigations LLC,(ROC216772) a dual licensed residential and small commercial contractor. He is also a qualified home inspector certified by the Arizona Board of Technical Registration (#38062) and was appointed to the Arizona Board of Technical Registration’s Enforcement Advisory Committee. He has 9 years construction experience and has performed residential and commercial property inspections for over six years. He has specialized in forensic inspections, investigating failed, damaged and defective construction for over 3 years. He is a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors, (#205826) and currently sits on their board of directrs. Scott is also a member of the International Code Council (#5095644). He has been an instructor of home inspection at Mesa Community College and Arizona Sun-Tech Home Inspection School. He is an instructor for Inspection Training Associates, a Kaplan Professional School. He has served an District Chairman & Vice President for the Arizona chapter of the American Society of Home Inspectors and an approved instructor for both them and the Arizona Department of Real Estate. You bought a new home, ordered your options and moved in. A year or two go by and you start rearranging the furniture. That’s when you noticed the odor. You lifted the protective mat under your desk chair and the smell made your eyes water or maybe you smelled it when you opened a closet door or an unvented room. Did you order a light colored vinyl flooring for your kitchen but now the floor has a darker color coming through? Maybe it has a grey or green tint, maybe it has a purple or orange hue or maybe it has bubbled or lifted off of the floor. These problems and many others are caused by moisture vapor coming up through the concrete slab. This condition is occurring more frequently here in the Phoenix area and there are a few factors that contribute to the problem. Before we cover those factors, lets look at the problem a little closer. The Issues Moisture vapor coming up through a slab can cause wood floors to warp, delaminate swell and promotes mold growth. The moisture can cause the mastic that holds tile to the floor to fail, this leads to the floor tiles sounding hollow and lifting off the floor. The vapor frequently passes through carpet and other floorings unless there is some type of vapor barrier. Vinyl flooring creates a barrier by itself, other examples of barriers could be a chair mat, floor runners with a non-slip backing or anything else that prevents the moisture from escaping. The bottom line is, if moisture can’t pass through the flooring, then it is trapped under the flooring. That leads to the next question, where does the moisture come from? The Source The moisture typically comes from two sources. The water in the concrete mix slowly dries by traveling to the top of the slab and evaporating. This process can take six months to completely dry a properly placed slab. The other source of moisture is from the soil beneath the slab. Moisture evaporates and once concrete is placed on the ground, the evaporation of moisture in the soil is severely restricted. The moisture in the ground is rarely viewed, discussed or even considered an issue during construction since the slab is still in the drying process and there is not a large temperature difference above and below the concrete. However, this changes once the home is completed. Now the air inside the home is conditioned and the temperature change and pressure change along with the difference in relative humidity between the air above the slab and the soil beneath the slab causes a vapor pressure difference. Simply put, moisture travels from heat to cool. The moisture under the slab is drawn to the cool, dry, air conditioned concrete slab. Concrete is porous, it is not water proof and the moisture vapor rises to and passes through the slab by capillary action and vapor diffusion. The Cause Moisture under a slab wasn’t an issue in the desert a few years ago, but today is a different story. Today’s construction techniques are a little different, contractors are flooding building pads to address issues with the soil like compaction and expansiveness. Homes are also being constructed on properties that used to be agricultural land. This land may have been a dairy or a farm field that used to be irrigated frequently. Soils tests are commonly performed before the land is developed. Recently these soils tests results indicate moisture levels of 20% to 50% in the soil anywhere from two to 10 feet down. (it is rare that soil samples are taken below 10 feet deep) It takes a long time for moisture to rise to the top of a concrete slab from 10 feet down, maybe even years. Sometimes the grading and drainage of the property directs moisture into the soil below the foundation. This, in effect, can recharge the moisture source under the slab. There is also the possibility of an underground plumbing leak or the landscape system adding moisture to the soil under the slab. However, homes are built on moist soils all over the world, why do we have a moisture problem in the desert? Construction Issues The moisture is drawn up to and through the slab by capillary action, vapor diffusion and evaporation. The quickest way to prevent the moisture from migrating through the slab is to stop these actions from occurring. One of the things that need to change is the aggregate base course (ABC) that is being used in the desert. Currently the ABC is a sand/stone mixture, however sand promotes the capillary action and therefore makes a poor choice as ABC in an area where there is an elevated moisture content in the subsoils. Using a stone as ABC would help eliminate the capillary action. Another way to reduce the moisture is to provide adequate grading and drainage. This should include controlling roof drainage and diverting it at least 8 feet away from the foundation. The landscaping plumbing and control valves should also be located several feet away from the foundation as the control valves have a tendency to leak and the further away that moisture is from the foundation, the less impact it will have on the foundation. The most effective way to control the moisture is with a vapor barrier. This is a thin plastic sheet placed on top of the ABC before the concrete is poured. Previous construction practices would place the vapor barrier below the ABC or place a thin layer of sand on top of the vapor barrier so that moisture could escape through the top and bottom of the slab, however the moisture still migrates up through the slab. Placing the barrier below the sand or ABC creates a reservoir for the water that drains from the wet concrete and capillary action prevents moisture from draining by gravity through the sand. It may interest you to know that a vapor retarder is required by the International Residential Code (IRC) in section 506.2.3, however, it may be omitted if the local building official approves the omission due to local site conditions. So how is the issue corrected? Correcting the Issue The best way to get rid of the moisture in the slab is to prevent it from getting there in the first place. Check the moisture content of the soil, use ABC that is ½ inch or larger and install a vapor barrier above the ABC and below the concrete. If the home is already built and you own it then you need the help of professionals. Have a calcium chloride test performed on the floor slab to determine the rate of vapor transmission through the slab. If floor coverings are present they will need to be removed before and during the testing. Testing commonly takes 24 to 60 hours. There are many different flooring companies that can perform this test for you, or contact the engineer you want to assist you with this project. Check for moisture sources around the home including grading, drainage, irrigation, roof downspouts, and swimming pools. Have the supply and the waste plumbing checked for leaks. If you still have not corrected the issue, then consult with professionals. Expect them to core through the slab and determine if a vapor barrier is present and investigate the conditions of the soil and ABC under the slab. Methods of repair are limited and should be considered fully before proceeding. The slab surface can be sealed. This will reduce or even stop the vapor transmission temporarily. A good sealer may last ten years, inexpensive sealers may not last a year. Before sealing, all floor coverings and furnishings will need to be removed from the slab. There are other methods of venting or draining the slab that are available, some involve forcing air under the slab or drawing air from under the slab. Another method is to install a drainage system that gets the moisture away from the slab. All of these repairs should be reviewed by an engineer before they are implemented, and the work should be performed by a contractor experienced in this area. Scott Warga, is the Qualifying party for ACSI American Construction Specialists and Investigations LLC,(ROC216772) a dual licensed residential and small commercial contractor. He is also a qualified home inspector certified by the Arizona Board of Technical Registration (#38062) and was appointed to the Arizona Board of Technical Registration’s Enforcement Advisory Committee. He has 9 years construction experience and has performed residential and commercial property inspections for over six years. He has specialized in forensic inspections, investigating failed, damaged and defective construction for over 3 years. He is a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors, (#205826) and currently sits on their board of directrs. Scott is also a member of the International Code Council (#5095644). He has been an instructor of home inspection at Mesa Community College and Arizona Sun-Tech Home Inspection School. He is an instructor for Inspection Training Associates, a Kaplan Professional School. He has served an District Chairman & Vice President for the Arizona chapter of the American Society of Home Inspectors and an approved instructor for both them and the Arizona Department of Real Estate. Tue, 26 May 2009 23:30:13 GMT http://www.lbnnetwork.com/_MOISTURE-IN-CONCRETE-SLABS-POURED-ON-GRADE-IN-ARIZONA/BLOG/290075/34209.html swarga 2009-05-26T23:30:13Z LBN Network You bought a new home, ordered your options and moved in. A year or two go by and you start rearranging the furniture. That’s when you noticed the odor. You lifted the protective mat under your desk chair and the smell made your eyes water or maybe you smelled it when you opened a closet door or an unvented room. Did you order a light colored vinyl flooring for your kitchen but now the floor has a darker color coming through? Maybe it has a grey or green tint, maybe it has a purple or orange hue or maybe it has bubbled or lifted off of the floor. These problems and many others are caused by moisture vapor coming up through the concrete slab. This condition is occurring more frequently here in the Phoenix area and there are a few factors that contribute to the problem. Before we cover those factors, lets look at the problem a little closer. The Issues Moisture vapor coming up through a slab can cause wood floors to warp, delaminate swell and promotes mold growth. The moisture can cause the mastic that holds tile to the floor to fail, this leads to the floor tiles sounding hollow and lifting off the floor. The vapor frequently passes through carpet and other floorings unless there is some type of vapor barrier. Vinyl flooring creates a barrier by itself, other examples of barriers could be a chair mat, floor runners with a non-slip backing or anything else that prevents the moisture from escaping. The bottom line is, if moisture can’t pass through the flooring, then it is trapped under the flooring. That leads to the next question, where does the moisture come from? The Source The moisture typically comes from two sources. The water in the concrete mix slowly dries by traveling to the top of the slab and evaporating. This process can take six months to completely dry a properly placed slab. The other source of moisture is from the soil beneath the slab. Moisture evaporates and once concrete is placed on the ground, the evaporation of moisture in the soil is severely restricted. The moisture in the ground is rarely viewed, discussed or even considered an issue during construction since the slab is still in the drying process and there is not a large temperature difference above and below the concrete. However, this changes once the home is completed. Now the air inside the home is conditioned and the temperature change and pressure change along with the difference in relative humidity between the air above the slab and the soil beneath the slab causes a vapor pressure difference. Simply put, moisture travels from heat to cool. The moisture under the slab is drawn to the cool, dry, air conditioned concrete slab. Concrete is porous, it is not water proof and the moisture vapor rises to and passes through the slab by capillary action and vapor diffusion. The Cause Moisture under a slab wasn’t an issue in the desert a few years ago, but today is a different story. Today’s construction techniques are a little different, contractors are flooding building pads to address issues with the soil like compaction and expansiveness. Homes are also being constructed on properties that used to be agricultural land. This land may have been a dairy or a farm field that used to be irrigated frequently. Soils tests are commonly performed before the land is developed. Recently these soils tests results indicate moisture levels of 20% to 50% in the soil anywhere from two to 10 feet down. (it is rare that soil samples are taken below 10 feet deep) It takes a long time for moisture to rise to the top of a concrete slab from 10 feet down, maybe even years. Sometimes the grading and drainage of the property directs moisture into the soil below the foundation. This, in effect, can recharge the moisture source under the slab. There is also the possibility of an underground plumbing leak or the landscape system adding moisture to the soil under the slab. However, homes are built on moist soils all over the world, why do we have a moisture problem in the desert? Construction Issues The moisture is drawn up to and through the slab by capillary action, vapor diffusion and evaporation. The quickest way to prevent the moisture from migrating through the slab is to stop these actions from occurring. One of the things that need to change is the aggregate base course (ABC) that is being used in the desert. Currently the ABC is a sand/stone mixture, however sand promotes the capillary action and therefore makes a poor choice as ABC in an area where there is an elevated moisture content in the subsoils. Using a stone as ABC would help eliminate the capillary action. Another way to reduce the moisture is to provide adequate grading and drainage. This should include controlling roof drainage and diverting it at least 8 feet away from the foundation. The landscaping plumbing and control valves should also be located several feet away from the foundation as the control valves have a tendency to leak and the further away that moisture is from the foundation, the less impact it will have on the foundation. The most effective way to control the moisture is with a vapor barrier. This is a thin plastic sheet placed on top of the ABC before the concrete is poured. Previous construction practices would place the vapor barrier below the ABC or place a thin layer of sand on top of the vapor barrier so that moisture could escape through the top and bottom of the slab, however the moisture still migrates up through the slab. Placing the barrier below the sand or ABC creates a reservoir for the water that drains from the wet concrete and capillary action prevents moisture from draining by gravity through the sand. It may interest you to know that a vapor retarder is required by the International Residential Code (IRC) in section 506.2.3, however, it may be omitted if the local building official approves the omission due to local site conditions. So how is the issue corrected? Correcting the Issue The best way to get rid of the moisture in the slab is to prevent it from getting there in the first place. Check the moisture content of the soil, use ABC that is ½ inch or larger and install a vapor barrier above the ABC and below the concrete. If the home is already built and you own it then you need the help of professionals. Have a calcium chloride test performed on the floor slab to determine the rate of vapor transmission through the slab. If floor coverings are present they will need to be removed before and during the testing. Testing commonly takes 24 to 60 hours. There are many different flooring companies that can perform this test for you, or contact the engineer you want to assist you with this project. Check for moisture sources around the home including grading, drainage, irrigation, roof downspouts, and swimming pools. Have the supply and the waste plumbing checked for leaks. If you still have not corrected the issue, then consult with professionals. Expect them to core through the slab and determine if a vapor barrier is present and investigate the conditions of the soil and ABC under the slab. Methods of repair are limited and should be considered fully before proceeding. The slab surface can be sealed. This will reduce or even stop the vapor transmission temporarily. A good sealer may last ten years, inexpensive sealers may not last a year. Before sealing, all floor coverings and furnishings will need to be removed from the slab. There are other methods of venting or draining the slab that are available, some involve forcing air under the slab or drawing air from under the slab. Another method is to install a drainage system that gets the moisture away from the slab. All of these repairs should be reviewed by an engineer before they are implemented, and the work should be performed by a contractor experienced in this area. Scott Warga, is the Qualifying party for ACSI American Construction Specialists and Investigations LLC,(ROC216772) a dual licensed residential and small commercial contractor. He is also a qualified home inspector certified by the Arizona Board of Technical Registration (#38062) and was appointed to the Arizona Board of Technical Registration’s Enforcement Advisory Committee. He has 9 years construction experience and has performed residential and commercial property inspections for over six years. He has specialized in forensic inspections, investigating failed, damaged and defective construction for over 3 years. He is a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors, (#205826) and currently sits on their board of directrs. Scott is also a member of the International Code Council (#5095644). He has been an instructor of home inspection at Mesa Community College and Arizona Sun-Tech Home Inspection School. He is an instructor for Inspection Training Associates, a Kaplan Professional School. He has served an District Chairman & Vice President for the Arizona chapter of the American Society of Home Inspectors and an approved instructor for both them and the Arizona Department of Real Estate. concrete, in, moisture, slabs nonadult false MOISTURE IN CONCRETE SLABS POURED ON GRADE IN ARIZONA text blog concrete,in,moisture,slabs 447 0 0.0 http://www.lbnnetwork.com/service/displayKickPlace.kickAction?u=3900867&as=34209 http://media.kickstatic.com/kickapps/images/34209/photos/PHOTO_3882166_34209_3900867_ap_160X120.jpg false Arizona Gilbert 1 0 290075 3900867 Member 0 The hard truth about infrared (Real Estate Agents Read This) http://www.lbnnetwork.com/_The-hard-truth-about-infrared-Real-Estate-Agents-Read-This/BLOG/290073/34209.html I recently had a real estate agent ask me if infrared was a good thing and should she recommend it to her clients, my answer was a definite maybe, here is why. Every few years a new trend comes along that affects the home industry. These trends include mold, lead, radon, asbestos, moisture meters, microwave leak detectors and now infrared or thermal imaging.  These trends come with the homeowners protection in mind, however there are always people there trying to make a quick profit from the latest trend. Allow me to start by saying I am a home inspector and many of the home inspectors that read this will be very upset with me because they feel that the proper training and programs are not necessary, I will let you decide. I will also state that I believe mold, lead, radon, and asbestos  are all items that may need to be checked, however any testing needs to be performed by a trained professional and not someone that bought a sampler and attended a eight hour class and now calls themselves “certified”. Anyone in the US can purchase a thermal imaging device for a price starting around $3,000 but most quality units start in the $10,000 range. These units are incredible; however, just because you can buy a camera, does not make you a Thermographer.  Real training is needed to properly operate the thermal imager and to interpret the images. (this is why inspectors charge more for this service.) Limitations Like any tool these units have their limitations: They only measure surface temperature. (They can’t see through walls) There may be issues in a wall like moisture or missing insulation that effect the surface temperature of the wall and the thermal imaging device may detect those differences but infrared is not an X-Ray. Many surfaces are reflective and if not properly addressed can provide false readings. For example the heat from ceiling lights can be viewed on a wood laminate floor, Glass and ceramic tiles have a mirror effect when scanned with a thermal imaging device. The units are so sensitive that they can measure 1/10 of a degree F. This leads the inexperienced operator to spot items that appear to be major issues, only to discover later that there was a temperature difference of <1°F. I have been called to many projects where someone had an infrared camera and called out issues. When a contractor is hired to address the issue they are told “everything is fine, I couldn’t find a problem.” That is when I get called in. I will look at the pictures from the first person and try to recreate the conditions preset when they did their work, then determine if there is a real problem. Most of the time the problem is the previous operator. Training Here is the short version. Most people with infrared cameras have had some training and many will call themselves “Level One thermographers”, however even they don’t understand what that term means. A true “Level one certification is a single component of a Thermography program Standard that follows the American Society of Nondestructive Testing (ASNT) guidelines for certification. That program needs to be overseen by a Level three thermographer. If someone tells you they are “Level One Thermographer” simply ask them who the level 3 thermographer is in their program; If they don’t have an answer than they are not meeting the ASNT standards. You also need to be aware of the certification stamping companies. Some are no more that a pay and be certified, some provide minimal training but there is no one there to verify who took the training or if the student can field demonstrate how to use  the thermal imaging device.There are also ASTM standards on how to use thermal imaging to perform different inspections, for example, there is a standard for  an insulation inspection on wood framed buildings.  That standard requires several things like recording the interior and exterior temperatures and making sure the difference between those temperatures meets the standard. The inspector needs to measure the wind speed and direction, the solar conditions, The building construction, levels, orientation, surroundings etc. If your inspector is not recording this data then they are not meeting the standard of care set up by ASTM. A qualified and ethical inspector will also understand building science and apply that knowledge while performing the thermal imaging. Simply put the infrared unit will not see moisture if it is not there so if it hasn’t rained in two weeks, it may not find the leaks. If the interior and exterior temperature are the same (very common in the spring and fall) then it is likely the camera will not be able to identify insulation issues. Now I return to the agents question: should she recommend it to her clients? Yes if the person performing the thermal imaging is properly trained to do so and you are aware of the conditions needed to properly conduct a thermal imaging inspection. If If your inspector is charging extra for scanning walls with infrared and it has not rained for a month and all of the windows of the home are open, then it is time to find someone else..   Scott Warga, is the Qualifying party for ACSI American Construction Specialists and Investigations LLC,(ROC216772) a dual licensed residential and small commercial contractor. He is also a qualified home inspector certified by the Arizona Board of Technical Registration (#38062) and was appointed to the Arizona Board of Technical Registration’s Enforcement Advisory Committee. He has 9 years construction experience and has performed residential and commercial property inspections for over six years. He has specialized in forensic inspections, investigating failed, damaged and defective construction for over 4 years. He is a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors, (#205826) and currently sits on their board of directors. Scott is also a member of the International Code Council (#5095644). He has been an instructor of home inspection at Mesa Community College and Arizona Sun-Tech Home Inspection School. He is an instructor for Inspection Training Associates, a Kaplan Professional School. He has served an District Chairman & Vice President for the Arizona chapter of the American Society of Home Inspectors and an approved instructor for both them and the Arizona Department of Real Estate. I recently had a real estate agent ask me if infrared was a good thing and should she recommend it to her clients, my answer was a definite maybe, here is why. Every few years a new trend comes along that affects the home industry. These trends include mold, lead, radon, asbestos, moisture meters, microwave leak detectors and now infrared or thermal imaging.  These trends come with the homeowners protection in mind, however there are always people there trying to make a quick profit from the latest trend. Allow me to start by saying I am a home inspector and many of the home inspectors that read this will be very upset with me because they feel that the proper training and programs are not necessary, I will let you decide. I will also state that I believe mold, lead, radon, and asbestos  are all items that may need to be checked, however any testing needs to be performed by a trained professional and not someone that bought a sampler and attended a eight hour class and now calls themselves “certified”. Anyone in the US can purchase a thermal imaging device for a price starting around $3,000 but most quality units start in the $10,000 range. These units are incredible; however, just because you can buy a camera, does not make you a Thermographer.  Real training is needed to properly operate the thermal imager and to interpret the images. (this is why inspectors charge more for this service.) Limitations Like any tool these units have their limitations: They only measure surface temperature. (They can’t see through walls) There may be issues in a wall like moisture or missing insulation that effect the surface temperature of the wall and the thermal imaging device may detect those differences but infrared is not an X-Ray. Many surfaces are reflective and if not properly addressed can provide false readings. For example the heat from ceiling lights can be viewed on a wood laminate floor, Glass and ceramic tiles have a mirror effect when scanned with a thermal imaging device. The units are so sensitive that they can measure 1/10 of a degree F. This leads the inexperienced operator to spot items that appear to be major issues, only to discover later that there was a temperature difference of <1°F. I have been called to many projects where someone had an infrared camera and called out issues. When a contractor is hired to address the issue they are told “everything is fine, I couldn’t find a problem.” That is when I get called in. I will look at the pictures from the first person and try to recreate the conditions preset when they did their work, then determine if there is a real problem. Most of the time the problem is the previous operator. Training Here is the short version. Most people with infrared cameras have had some training and many will call themselves “Level One thermographers”, however even they don’t understand what that term means. A true “Level one certification is a single component of a Thermography program Standard that follows the American Society of Nondestructive Testing (ASNT) guidelines for certification. That program needs to be overseen by a Level three thermographer. If someone tells you they are “Level One Thermographer” simply ask them who the level 3 thermographer is in their program; If they don’t have an answer than they are not meeting the ASNT standards. You also need to be aware of the certification stamping companies. Some are no more that a pay and be certified, some provide minimal training but there is no one there to verify who took the training or if the student can field demonstrate how to use  the thermal imaging device.There are also ASTM standards on how to use thermal imaging to perform different inspections, for example, there is a standard for  an insulation inspection on wood framed buildings.  That standard requires several things like recording the interior and exterior temperatures and making sure the difference between those temperatures meets the standard. The inspector needs to measure the wind speed and direction, the solar conditions, The building construction, levels, orientation, surroundings etc. If your inspector is not recording this data then they are not meeting the standard of care set up by ASTM. A qualified and ethical inspector will also understand building science and apply that knowledge while performing the thermal imaging. Simply put the infrared unit will not see moisture if it is not there so if it hasn’t rained in two weeks, it may not find the leaks. If the interior and exterior temperature are the same (very common in the spring and fall) then it is likely the camera will not be able to identify insulation issues. Now I return to the agents question: should she recommend it to her clients? Yes if the person performing the thermal imaging is properly trained to do so and you are aware of the conditions needed to properly conduct a thermal imaging inspection. If If your inspector is charging extra for scanning walls with infrared and it has not rained for a month and all of the windows of the home are open, then it is time to find someone else..   Scott Warga, is the Qualifying party for ACSI American Construction Specialists and Investigations LLC,(ROC216772) a dual licensed residential and small commercial contractor. He is also a qualified home inspector certified by the Arizona Board of Technical Registration (#38062) and was appointed to the Arizona Board of Technical Registration’s Enforcement Advisory Committee. He has 9 years construction experience and has performed residential and commercial property inspections for over six years. He has specialized in forensic inspections, investigating failed, damaged and defective construction for over 4 years. He is a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors, (#205826) and currently sits on their board of directors. Scott is also a member of the International Code Council (#5095644). He has been an instructor of home inspection at Mesa Community College and Arizona Sun-Tech Home Inspection School. He is an instructor for Inspection Training Associates, a Kaplan Professional School. He has served an District Chairman & Vice President for the Arizona chapter of the American Society of Home Inspectors and an approved instructor for both them and the Arizona Department of Real Estate. Tue, 26 May 2009 23:28:32 GMT http://www.lbnnetwork.com/_The-hard-truth-about-infrared-Real-Estate-Agents-Read-This/BLOG/290073/34209.html swarga 2009-05-26T23:28:32Z Arizona Law Channel LBN Network I recently had a real estate agent ask me if infrared was a good thing and should she recommend it to her clients, my answer was a definite maybe, here is why. Every few years a new trend comes along that affects the home industry. These trends include mold, lead, radon, asbestos, moisture meters, microwave leak detectors and now infrared or thermal imaging.  These trends come with the homeowners protection in mind, however there are always people there trying to make a quick profit from the latest trend. Allow me to start by saying I am a home inspector and many of the home inspectors that read this will be very upset with me because they feel that the proper training and programs are not necessary, I will let you decide. I will also state that I believe mold, lead, radon, and asbestos  are all items that may need to be checked, however any testing needs to be performed by a trained professional and not someone that bought a sampler and attended a eight hour class and now calls themselves “certified”. Anyone in the US can purchase a thermal imaging device for a price starting around $3,000 but most quality units start in the $10,000 range. These units are incredible; however, just because you can buy a camera, does not make you a Thermographer.  Real training is needed to properly operate the thermal imager and to interpret the images. (this is why inspectors charge more for this service.) Limitations Like any tool these units have their limitations: They only measure surface temperature. (They can’t see through walls) There may be issues in a wall like moisture or missing insulation that effect the surface temperature of the wall and the thermal imaging device may detect those differences but infrared is not an X-Ray. Many surfaces are reflective and if not properly addressed can provide false readings. For example the heat from ceiling lights can be viewed on a wood laminate floor, Glass and ceramic tiles have a mirror effect when scanned with a thermal imaging device. The units are so sensitive that they can measure 1/10 of a degree F. This leads the inexperienced operator to spot items that appear to be major issues, only to discover later that there was a temperature difference of <1°F. I have been called to many projects where someone had an infrared camera and called out issues. When a contractor is hired to address the issue they are told “everything is fine, I couldn’t find a problem.” That is when I get called in. I will look at the pictures from the first person and try to recreate the conditions preset when they did their work, then determine if there is a real problem. Most of the time the problem is the previous operator. Training Here is the short version. Most people with infrared cameras have had some training and many will call themselves “Level One thermographers”, however even they don’t understand what that term means. A true “Level one certification is a single component of a Thermography program Standard that follows the American Society of Nondestructive Testing (ASNT) guidelines for certification. That program needs to be overseen by a Level three thermographer. If someone tells you they are “Level One Thermographer” simply ask them who the level 3 thermographer is in their program; If they don’t have an answer than they are not meeting the ASNT standards. You also need to be aware of the certification stamping companies. Some are no more that a pay and be certified, some provide minimal training but there is no one there to verify who took the training or if the student can field demonstrate how to use  the thermal imaging device.There are also ASTM standards on how to use thermal imaging to perform different inspections, for example, there is a standard for  an insulation inspection on wood framed buildings.  That standard requires several things like recording the interior and exterior temperatures and making sure the difference between those temperatures meets the standard. The inspector needs to measure the wind speed and direction, the solar conditions, The building construction, levels, orientation, surroundings etc. If your inspector is not recording this data then they are not meeting the standard of care set up by ASTM. A qualified and ethical inspector will also understand building science and apply that knowledge while performing the thermal imaging. Simply put the infrared unit will not see moisture if it is not there so if it hasn’t rained in two weeks, it may not find the leaks. If the interior and exterior temperature are the same (very common in the spring and fall) then it is likely the camera will not be able to identify insulation issues. Now I return to the agents question: should she recommend it to her clients? Yes if the person performing the thermal imaging is properly trained to do so and you are aware of the conditions needed to properly conduct a thermal imaging inspection. If If your inspector is charging extra for scanning walls with infrared and it has not rained for a month and all of the windows of the home are open, then it is time to find someone else..   Scott Warga, is the Qualifying party for ACSI American Construction Specialists and Investigations LLC,(ROC216772) a dual licensed residential and small commercial contractor. He is also a qualified home inspector certified by the Arizona Board of Technical Registration (#38062) and was appointed to the Arizona Board of Technical Registration’s Enforcement Advisory Committee. He has 9 years construction experience and has performed residential and commercial property inspections for over six years. He has specialized in forensic inspections, investigating failed, damaged and defective construction for over 4 years. He is a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors, (#205826) and currently sits on their board of directors. Scott is also a member of the International Code Council (#5095644). He has been an instructor of home inspection at Mesa Community College and Arizona Sun-Tech Home Inspection School. He is an instructor for Inspection Training Associates, a Kaplan Professional School. He has served an District Chairman & Vice President for the Arizona chapter of the American Society of Home Inspectors and an approved instructor for both them and the Arizona Department of Real Estate. arizona law channel, infrared, thermal imaging nonadult false The hard truth about infrared (Real Estate Agents Read This) text blog arizona law channel,infrared,thermal imaging 184 0 0.0 http://www.lbnnetwork.com/service/displayKickPlace.kickAction?u=3900867&as=34209 http://media.kickstatic.com/kickapps/images/34209/photos/PHOTO_3882166_34209_3900867_ap_160X120.jpg false 0 0 290073 3900867 Member 0