This week I finally visited the Union City Grille Restaurant, located at 8th and Union in Little Italy. I kept hearing accolades from various friends and acquaintances and decided it was past time to see for myself.

The first thing that struck me was the welcoming comfortable atmosphere. The decor is a subtle mix of classic casual comfort and Feng Shui with lots of rich wood and amply cushioned seating. To me, comfortable seating can make or break my overall dining experience. One of many little nuances that immediately caught my eye was the wooden pepper and salt grinders on all of the tables. In my opinion, thoughtful touches that show appreciation for an individual diners palate are noteworthy.

I asked owner/chef Matthew Curtis what he most wanted to convey to people about Union City Grille. His initial response was simply "honesty". At first, I wasn't quite sure what he was getting at, but during the course of our conversation as he talked about the decisions he made, I understood.
 
I always like to get what I refer to as the "back story" of any business I write about. To that end, one of the broad stroke questions I often ask is "If I had a magic wand and could grant you 3 wishes what would they be?" He answered with alacrity that " 1) he wished to witness his daughter growing up to be happy and lead a productive life, 2) he wished the same for the child that he and his wife are expecting in May and 3) "That my wife and I will be together forever". While not at all what I expected, these answers are at the core of "honesty" that Matt was talking about.

When Matt and his wife first decided to take over the restaurant in 2008 there were key elements that he wanted to provide, incorporating his personal philosophy: “Use the best seasonal ingredients available and don’t screw it up in the kitchen”.

Chef Curtis had a vision of a place where people would come and enjoy a nice evening out, with consistently good food in an upscale but casual and unpretentious atmosphere. The goal was to create warm and comfortable surroundings and serve food that "tastes the way it should."

Don't be fooled by what sounds like a simplistic view. Matt, who has always had a passion for cooking started at the ripe old age of 15, worked and learned for the next 20 years under the tutelage of some if the areas most renowned chefs, and is now a well respected chef in his own right. He considers owning a restaurant a "lifestyle", one that he clearly loves.

Chef Curtis worked his way up by spending his "time off" and time during the occasional slow periods at work learning and practicing. He told me that he can show anyone how to prepare a dish but he cannot give them the passion.

I asked Matt what impression he hoped people would walk away with. His response was that he wanted Union City Grille to be known as a place to enjoy an inexpensive and delicious meal.

Matt possesses a very clear and pragmatic view about the subjectivity of the dining experience. Citing the oh so controversial "Crab Cake" as the quintessential example in the minds of area consumers, he related the following.  Although they are as fussy about the amount of premium lump crab meat (every single one has the exact same number of pure lumps of premium crab meat) put in the same way the blueberries were counted in the muffins in the movie Casino. All the ingredients are fresh and there is only enough "filler" to hold the cakes together. He knows that often his Crab Cakes won't  (in the mind of the diner) be up to snuff. It has nothing to do with the quality of his Crab Cakes and everything to do with the "emotional experience" of the customer who will never like any Crab Cakes as much as the ones they had at (you fill in the blank). The fact that he gets that and rolls with it so easily, secure in the knowledge that they makes the best Crab Cakes they can, with a specific amount of lump cab meat in each is a prime example of their  "honesty".

To Matt, the hamburger is "The perfect food. It has protein. Vegetables and grain all in one and it can be made in a myriad of ways". Pair one of their burgers with one of the many organic beers they have on tap and you should be one happy camper.

When I asked him to describe the menu, he explained that it was eclectic, along with the 4-page wine list, ranging from their award winning Chili to their signature filets cooked to temperature not color, to his meatballs that were supposed to be a one shot deal but ended up being number 1 (no small feat in Little Italy) and homemade pasta. Although there are mainstays, Chef Curtis is always updating the menu with tantalizing choices thoughtfully created to appeal to today’s educated and more adventurous clientele.

Union City Grille accompanies their culinary offerings with a painstakingly chosen wine list which features a variety of vintages to accommodate a discerning palate as well as a diverse selection of wines ranging from less than $20 per bottle, from around the world to compliment the cuisine.

Matt has a vision of providing excellent cuisine that does not strain your budget. He honestly wants to serve good food at an honest price with courtesy and respect.

Another added feature of the Union City Grille experience is that as part of their ongoing community outreach, Chef Curtis displays the works of local artists. During the month of March, clientele can feast their eyes on works of one of my personal favorite regional pastel (& recently oils) artists Donna Cusano. Donna's plain air style of painting captures the essence of the landscape, light and mood of the day.

I honestly think that Union City Grille (which by the way offers off street parking) is well worth the trip. If, like me, you have not yet had the pleasure, join us for Green Drinks – Networking for Eco-Minded People, on Tuesday, March 16th and sample some of their organic beer, wine and other spirits as well as a menu that Chef Curtis is creating for the event.

For more information about The Union City Grille and future events visit UnionCityGrille.com.

--by Christine K. LaMonica